- Off the rack (OTR)
- Made to Measure (MTM)
- Bespoke or Custom Tailored (CT)
The first type is considered by most people to be less expensive, but this is not always so. Many OTR suits come complete with an expensive label that really pushes the price up. OTR suits are made by machines, not by hand, and they are mass produced with all the accompanying flaws that are inherent in this production method. Expect low quality materials, stitching errors, loose threads and other small imperfections. These suits have a cheap look and don't usually last a long time, especially more recently manufactured ones which are of much lower quality than back in our grandparent's days.
Made to measure suits are different. What they have in common with the OTR suits is that the style is predetermined, meaning you can't request a different cut, different fabric , more buttons, less buttons, or anything else that would be considered a custom feature. MTM suits are still usually better quality and they are guaranteed to fit, because they are made to fit your exact measurements. You need to be very specific about your requirements when ordering one of these suits because the options are less flexible. MTM suits can sometimes be quite a bit cheaper than OTR suits, and almost always cheaper than CT suits.
Finally there is the custom made suit, which is normally more expensive than MTM but still less expensive than some high-end OTR brands, depending on the tailor you choose. Getting the best suit means you need to be clear with your tailor about your expectations, and provide as much detail as possible about the environment where you will be wearing the suit, details about how often you will be wearing it, and other factors like that. Your tailor can then make recommendations for you based on the criteria you have specified.
Here are the main things to think about:
- The climate and weather conditions of your city. Custom suits for Sacramento will need to be completely different to suits designed for wear in southern California.
- The main purpose of the suit. If the suit is for ordinary every day wear, it will need much more reinforcement, which may raise the price a little. If it is for business wear, it will need to be given a more formal cut.
- The look you want to achieve. There are all kinds of factors that will affect the impression your suit creates for you. This is something you need to discuss in detail when ordering your suit to make sure you get exactly what you want.