The Anatomy of a Perfect-Fitting Suit
How a suit fits plays a key role in its overall function and aesthetics. Tossing on just an ordinary suit without taking the time to get the proper measurements of your body is a recipe for disaster. Sure, you may get a lucky and find the right suit for your body shape and size, but this rarely happens. Instead, you'll end up with a suit that's either too large, creating the "clothes hanger" look, or one that's too small, which creates an awkwardly tight appearance when worn. That's why today we're going to reveal the anatomy of a perfect-fitting suit.
Let's first talk about the shoulder, because this is an area in which many guys struggle. A well-fitted suit should have a shoulder that lies flat, with the seam on the top being roughly the same length as the bone. This should connect with the sleeve of the right at the junction of the arm and shoulder. If the shoulder rises above the top of the arm, it's too big and you need a different suit (or have your current suit tailored). If the shoulder falls below the arm, it's too small -- you get the idea.
In terms of jacket length, a good rule of thumb it to leave half an inch of your t-shirt visible. In other words, the arm sleeves of your suit jacket should stop about half an inch before your wrists, with this area showing your shirt. Far too many guys wear jackets that are either too long or too short, creating a messy appearance that's does their look no justice, so make sure your jacket sleeves are the appropriate length.
Now for the collar, another area of concern for many guys. Don't make the mistake of wearing a bunched up collar, as this is one of the most visible elements of a suit. Collars that are loose and open will lead to this problem, which is why it's a good idea to opt for tighter collars. On the other hand, however, if a collar is too tight it may cut off circulation to your neck -- and that's never a good thing. Try using a tight collar than contours around your neck without cutting off your circulation. The pant length is something else to consider when choosing a men's suit. The legs should stop just around the ankles, no more or no less.
