Understanding the differences between different kinds of suits and the various styles available is a particularly valuable kind of information to have. It can help you choose the correct kind of suit for whatever kind of situation you're expecting to find yourself in.
1. Fabric types You can choose from many different fabrics, but it's important to choose a fabric that is appropriate to where and how you will be using the suit. The most popular suit fabric choices are:
- Worsted Wool – heavy, warm, good durability and moderate to high cost
- Tweed – a wool suit with a loose weave giving a softer texture, favorite choice of college professors
- Linen – made from flax, light weight, cool, very durable, more expensive than cotton, less than wool
- Cotton – light, cool, one of the least expensive fabric choices, however moths love to eat cotton
- Corduroy – very strong fabric, but also heavy, best for casual wear rather than formal
- Velvet – strictly for Hugh Heffner proteges, choose velvet if you like smoking and talking about yachts
- Silk – very expensive, slick and shiny, generates lots of static, very strong and light
Blending cotton or wool with cashmere can improve the qualities of both, but it does make quite a difference to the price. Suits made from all synthetic materials, such as nylon or polyester, should typically be avoided.
2. Lapel types The lapel can make or break the look of a suit. Pay special attention to it, because a badly designed lapel is something you must avoid. The usual styles are:
- Peak – the edge points to the shoulder
- Notch – the edge runs parallel to the shoulder
- Shawl – there is no edge, just a continuous curve
- Madarin or Nehru – invisible lapel
3. Suit types There are a few basic different styles, but many of them are virtually obsolete today except in very special circumstances.
- Double breasted – the classic suit style, most suited to formal wear
- Single breasted – a more streamlined look, suitable for business and casual wear
- Tuxedo – a modern variation of the dinner suit, shortened and without tails
- Dinner suit – a very formal suit for evening wear, and with tails
- Morning suit – formal, usually gray, long jacket, requires top hat to complete the look
- Ball dress – ultra formal with a slightly military look, rarely seen today
- Academic dress – once commonly worn by schoolmasters, it is now only worn at graduations
There are a few other types too. The standard choice is single breasted, but when you really need to make a powerful statement, the double breasted suit can be a good choice. All other types are really best reserved for special formal occasions and are otherwise considered a novelty in the modern world. Most suit buyers will do well to choose a single breasted suit in either linen, cotton, or wool (depending on the climate), with a standard notched collar and quality accessories to show the suit to best advantage. Consult
Studio Suits for more advice about choosing and buying suits. This well-established custom tailoring company makes the entire process of getting a suit as simple as can be.
